Rabbit Care

Foreword

Please remember these are my opinians and other breeders/rabbit keepers may do things differently.  If you are concerned about your rabbit's health at any time, do not hesistate to contact your vet.

Rabbit Care

HOUSING

The size of the hutch you require depends on the size of the rabbit you intend to keep. For example a Netherland Dwarf doesn't need as large a hutch as the British Giant would do.

Your Hutch/es will need to be made of a strong material, be well made and be of a good size. I keep my rabbits in a shed and they are housed in Avondale Hutches, which I find are a good quality hutch and I recommend them (the link is on my links page).

HUTCH CLEANING

Rabbits require their hutches cleaned out on a regular basis, especially in the summer months.  I disinfect my hutches with Rab San, which is a dry disinfectant.  Avondale hutches sell Rab San. I bed my rabbits down on good quality white shavings called Wooburn, which I get from a wholesalers/feed merchant. 

FEEDING

Rabbits require a good quality food, which also has a HIGH fibre content.  I feel that fibre is one of the most important aspects to a rabbit’s diet.  Hay is a essential part of a rabbit’s diet as it keep their guts moving and their teeth in trim.  I personally feed meadow hay, which I get from my local wholesalers.  Ensure that when you are buying hay that is smells fresh and isn’t brown or mouldy.

Rabbits also enjoy vegetables BUT be careful when introducing.  Check with the breeder if it has had vegetables or not, when you first get your rabbit/s and introduce it carefully into a rabbit’s diet. Be careful when introducing any new foods; remember a small amount at a time and mix it carefully with their old feed ensuring that the rabbit gets more of the new food each time that you feed them. 

I feed my rabbits on Dodson & Horrell Rabbit Royale, which is a good quality mix with a high fibre content (it even has dried dandelions in!) and I wholly recommend it.

HANDLING

To hold a rabbit place one hand under the bottom and support around the top of the rabbit. Talk to the rabbit gently so that it calms down and gets used to your voice. One thing to remember is that not all rabbits enjoy been handled and may scratch and panic.

GROOMING A SHORT HAIRED RABBIT

Short-coated rabbits don't need much grooming at all.  However, they will benefit from a brush with a soft brush now and again and it allows them to bond with you. If they were in a moult, they would benefit from regular grooming just to remove the dead hairs. 

For details of how to groom out a long coated rabbit go onto my cashmere page on this site or my Cashmere Lop Site at http://cashmincal.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/

NAILS

Rabbit’s nails grow constantly and unless they can wear them down naturally they will need to be trimmed. When you cut them, do not cut down to far otherwise you may cut the quick (blood vessel) and cause bleeding. If you don't feel 100 per cent confident ask a breeder to cut them for you and ask them to guide you through what they are doing so you will know in the future.

Choosing your Rabbit

First of all what do you want your rabbit to be?  A show rabbit? A pet? A houserabbit?  After you have considered these points and got all the equipment you need; you are ready to start looking for a rabbit.

If you want a show rabbit I suggest that you contact the BRC or the Rabbit Breeders site as they have a breeders directory at www.thebrc.org or http://www.rabbitbreeders.co.uk , a local breeder or visit your local show. At a show you will see many breeds of rabbit and you will be able to talk to breeders of any breed that takes your fancy and they will tell you all about the breed of your choice. 

If you want a pet rabbit I suggest the same thing as above, as breeders often have rabbits that are not quite up to standard but will make lovely pets, the same goes for if you want a house rabbit.

When choosing your Rabbit check:

~that their nose is clear and it isn't sneezing
~it doesn't have diarrhoea (indicates further problems)
~it is no younger than 8 weeks, 10 - 12 weeks being ideal
~its eyes are clear from any weepiness and cataracts
~that its belly doesn't sound and feel watery (indicates bloat)
~that it is bright and in good bodily condition

The shed/place you are getting your rabbit from should be clean and the other rabbits should appear fit and healthy.

If you are getting a show rabbit, try to get one that conforms with the BRC Breed Standard, whilst at the breeders you can ask about the breed you are getting to find out the qualities of that particular breed.

TOYS

Rabbits also enjoy playing with toys as it keeps their minds busy and prevents them from getting bored.  My rabbits have various toys including: willow balls, Russell Rabbit Dumbbells, the cat toys with bells in and rabbit rattles.  They seem to really enjoy them and are always playing with them.

VACCINATIONS

It is advisable to have your rabbit injected against VHD and Myxi - two deadly diseases in which there is no cure.  After their initial injections, each year they will need to have them again as a booster.